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At France’s creative campus le19M, craftsmanship blurs the boundary between fashion and interiors

Clothes Encounters

At France’s creative campus le19M, craftsmanship blurs the boundary between fashion and interiors

(Courtesy Lesage)
Located on the outskirts of Paris in Aubervilliers is the Rudy Ricciotti–designed campus called le19M, home to 700 craftsmen who specialize in the material workings and details that celebrate the French fashion industry. Workshops and offices in the complex create feathers, rock crystals, and everything in between. So why the name le19M? Nineteen is the number of the arrondissement and one of Mademoiselle Chanel’s favorite numbers—her birthdate. M stands in for métiers d’art, French for the art of craft, but also for the words mode (fashion), and main (hand).

Ricciotti’s architecture brings 11 studios together to encourage multidisciplinary overlaps and collaboration. Among the studios, AN Interior highlights five that are working closely with architects and designers, creating interdisciplinary works bridging form and craft today.

Studio MTX

The work of this atelier is solely focused on what it calls the art of architectural embroidery. Originally founded under the moniker Montex in 1949, the studio is dedicated to bringing traditional embroidery to life for interior and architectural projects. Think weaving, tapestry, and needlework that use unusual materials like brushed brass, crystal, and ribbons. Studio MTX projects are unique due to the intricate application of what we may consider industrial materials. The results range from ready-to-install art pieces, partially customized works, and of course entirely bespoke commissions for clients. Fully realized offerings are “Artefacts,” a series of objects ready to use like mirrors and lamps. Partially bespoke refers to creations which architects and designers customize like from their “Utsire” collection of cords and metal tubes for see-through hanging panels. Many industry players collaborate with MTX including designer Sybille de Margerie, architect Elliot Barnes, and pieces for the recent Chanel headquarters in Paris.

The architectural angles of the work are no accident: Artistic director Matthieu Bassée told AN Interior that “our origin is embroidery, but our horizon is architecture.”

Lemarié

Feather, flower, and couture craftsmen since 1880, Lemarié works within le19M to create tableaux-like feather marquetry—panels composed of dyed feathers and flowers primed for interior application. The fashion house shares a workshop with another historic maker, Lognon, founded even earlier in 1853, that continues the fine art of pleating.

The techniques on display here are in service of fashion, but executed at an architectural scale. Wall panels, window treatments, and cushions are all outputs by Lemarié designers. In addition to collaborating with decorators and artistic directors, the house’s core mission is transmission: keeping these historic practices alive. General manager Gwenaelle Crehalet told AN Interior that the house is guided by “the responsibility of preserving and passing on these rare skills, and ensuring their longevity over time.”

She explained that Lemarié does this both inside and out of the workshop “by getting involved in the training of young talents and working to increase the awareness of our professions.” In each workshop they welcome apprentices for up to two years. They also hold monthly training sessions for their employees to share their techniques and know how. All sessions are filmed and archived so this transmission and “memory” are available to the studio.

Read about more studios on aninteriormag.com.

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