Prada has thrown its 2018 fall menswear collection back to the 90’s, with a fashion show in Milan that put utilitarian black nylon front and center. Rem Koolhaas, Herzog & de Meuron, French designers Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec, and German industrial designer Konstantin Grcic were all invited to interpret the material through an industrial lens to create a unique item for the collection. Fashion designer Miuccia Prada’s rise to fame was built on black nylon in 1984; in weaving nylon, typically used for packaging at the time and not clothing, into the landmark luxury “Vela” bag, Prada transformed the luxury brand into a contemporary clothing company. The same waterproof “Pocone” nylon used in the original Vela bag was on full display yesterday at Prada’s preview of its Autumn Winter 2018 menswear collection in Milan. Instead of flash or color, the focus was on form and usage, and the menswear fashion week show was appropriately staged in an industrial warehouse with a Prada twist. The storage facility in Viale Ortles, Milan, was plastered with throwbacks to Prada’s past and lit with blues, reds and purples by AMO, the research and branding studio of OMA. This isn’t the first time AMO has worked with Prada, as they also designed Prada’s 2017 Spring/Summer venue. OMA founding principal Rem Koolhaas contributed a backwards backpack to the show, designing a black nylon pack meant to be worn on the front of the body. The boxy container is meant to be first and foremost accessible, as Koolhaas notes that the convenience of a backpack is negated by having to take it off to access. “The shape of the backpack has the convenience of flexibility, the location–the back–the huge inconvenience that it is fundamentally inaccessible to the wearer,” Koolhaas told Prada. In the same way the Vela bag advanced the backpack through material, Koolhaas’s pack was meant to be the next step forward in the bag’s shape. Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron chose to focus on the clothing side, designing a shirt patterned with what looks like statements in English, but reveals itself to be gibberish upon closer examination. Calling language useless, Herzog & de Meuron reduced words to nothing more than ornamentation as a commentary on the way untrue information has saturated our daily lives. “It has lost its seductive power. There is nothing new, nothing critical, nothing true in language that cannot be turned into its opposite and claimed to be equally true. Language has become an empty vehicle of information,” reads Herzog & de Meuron’s statement to Prada. OMA and Koolhaas have had a longstanding partnership with Prada, collaborating on everything from a 120,000-square-foot arts complex in Milan, to the Prada “Epicenter” in New York. All of Prada’s 2018 Autumn/Winter menswear collection can be found here.
Posts tagged with "Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec":
From quasi-camouflaged to head-turningly flamboyant, these designs for outdoor seating can enhance the character of a commercial plaza, a municipal complex, or an outdoor hospitality area. K Series Atelier Vierkant Set in a hardscape or landscape, these ceramic boulders provide visual interest—subtle or striking, depending on the context—as well as seating. Custom engraving is offered. Available in rounded and elongated profiles and several colorways. Comfony 600 Benkert Bänke A sinuous, contoured stainless steel frame is fitted with aluminum slats to create a minimalist lounger. Components are offered in a limited palette of colors and finishes. Palissade Collection Hay The slatted designed of this bench prevents water and debris from collecting on the seat. Part of a 13-piece collection of tables and seating, the powder-coated steel pieces are offered in three colors. Designed by Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec. Stay Bench Landscape Forms Part of the 35 Collection, this curvaceous cantilevered bench comes in backless and backed models; skateboard-discouraging seat dividers are optional. Surface- or embedded- installations are offered. In 22 standard colors; custom finishes available. Designed by frog. Folly Magis Fabricated in rotational-molded polyethylene, this loopy geometric bench has a matte finish. Designed by Ron Arad. Orange Beast SIXINCH This exuberant lounge is made of recyclable, CNC-cut foam. It's coated with a substance that's flexible as well as weather-, water-, and UV-resistant. Measuring more than 13 feet long, it can seat a crowd in comfort. Designed by Pieter Jamart.
At Salone del Mobile in April, French designers Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec demonstrated what it’s like to take a spin in a BMWi. Quiet Motion, the Bouroullec brothers’ interactive interpretation of the sustainable electric car brand, was an installation open for visitors to climb onto revolving platforms to relax as the world leisurely passed around them. Situated within a picturesque cloister of a Milanese monastery, four spinning cork platforms rotated slowly and quietly as, according to the brothers, “an allegorical interpretation of movement and contemplation.” The designers construed the concept of sustainable mobility with materials such as fabrics made of the sustainable wool yarn used as seat upholstery in the electric car and lightweight carbon columns produced using renewable energy resources. To reference materials used in car design, blue fabric strips surrounded each of the four carousels and leather covered the platforms. Bouroullec brothers-designed Aim lamps hung from the ceilings and illuminated the area at night. Materials commonly associated with furniture and interiors such as cork and fabrics were also utilized.